Chicago is the American city that makes the car-free case without trying: both airports on the train, a hotel corridor stacked along one subway line, and a lakefront that runs for 18 miles of path. The decisions are small — which station to sleep near, which pass to buy — and this page makes them.

Where to stay: the Red Line corridor

AreaStationBest forWatch out for
River NorthGrand (Red)First visits — the densest hotel stock, restaurants, the riverWeekend nightlife noise on the bar blocks
Streeterville / Mag MileChicago (Red)Shopping, Navy Pier, the lakefront on footPriciest corridor
The LoopClark/Lake, Washington, MonroeThe Art Institute, Millennium Park, every L lineQuiet after offices empty
West LoopMorgan (Green/Pink)The restaurant row, newer hotelsA transfer from the lakefront
Wicker ParkDamen (Blue)Second visits, the city's cool end, O'Hare directTwenty minutes from the Loop

Subway: The rule is a station within five minutes' walk — River North and the Loop make that trivial

Price: $150–300 for the mid-tier along the corridor, more on the Mag Mile, less in Wicker Park and the West Loop (our band)

For a first visit, River North around Grand is the answer: 80-plus hotels inside a ten-minute walk, the Riverwalk at the end of the block, and the Red Line to everything else.

The L and Ventra

The Loop from the river — the L's elevated tracks circle the business district the system is named for.
The Loop from the river — the L's elevated tracks circle the business district the system is named for.
Photo: Chris Rycroft from Cambridge, Massachusetts, United States · CC BY 2.0 · source

Subway: Eight colour-coded lines; the Red Line is the visitor's spine, the Brown Line the scenic loop above the streets, the Blue Line the airport run

Price: Ventra card, bank card or phone tapped at the turnstile — a flat fare per L ride, slightly less by bus, two-hour transfers; one-day pass around $10 (our estimate)

Hours: Red and Blue lines run 24 hours; the rest roughly 4am to 1am

Buses fill the east–west gaps — the 146 and 151 along the lakefront are the useful ones — and the Divvy bikes make the lakefront path a ride rather than a walk.

Both airports, by train

Getting there: O'Hare: Blue Line from under Terminal 2 to the Loop, about 45 minutes, 24 hours; the "Train to City" signs lead down from arrivals

Getting there: Midway: Orange Line, about 25 minutes to the Loop, a covered walkway from the terminal; last trains around 1am

Price: A higher fare applies boarding at O'Hare; Midway is a standard fare. Taxis run $40–60 from O'Hare in traffic (our estimate)

If fares are close, fly into Midway — it is nearer and the Orange Line is quicker. O'Hare's Blue Line is the better late-night arrival, because it never stops running.

The day outside: a national park by commuter train

Lake Michigan from the dunes — an hour and a half from Millennium Station, and the skyline sits on the horizon.
Lake Michigan from the dunes — an hour and a half from Millennium Station, and the skyline sits on the horizon.
Photo: aparlette · CC BY 2.0 · source

Getting there: South Shore Line from Millennium Station to Dune Park or Beverly Shores, about 85 minutes; the park entrance is a walk from either

The national park across the lake is Chicago's best-kept day trip.

What first-timers get wrong

  • Booking by the airport. O'Hare hotels are forty minutes from anything; sleep downtown and ride the Blue Line out.

  • Driving to the lakefront. The path is for walking and cycling; the beaches are a bus away.

  • Rush hour on the L. 7–9 and 4–6 are packed; the museums are open either side.

  • Underestimating winter. November to March the wind off the lake decides the itinerary; the Pedway and the museums are the answer.

Beyond Chicago without a car

Milwaukee is 90 minutes by Amtrak's Hiawatha; St. Louis four and a half hours on the Lincoln Service.

What is checked here and what is not

Lines, stations and airport links are stable and checked on the date shown; fares and hotel rates are our estimate of the current range.